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'THERE’S NOTHING LIKE THE PEAK DISTRICT' T' Walking with Jarvis Cocker on the extraordinary trail he’s co-created September 2019 The UK’s…
'THERE’S NOTHING LIKE THE PEAK DISTRICT' T' Walking with Jarvis Cocker on the extraordinary trail he’s co-created September 2019 The UK’s best-selling walking magazine BRITAIN’S BEST 27 RiRidge dge walks TESTED TROUSERS + POLES 15 spectacular ways to make you feel on top of the world! ROUTE CARDS Step-by- step walks in 26 counties Fairy Glen & more magic places T V WA L K S BAKE OFF EXPLORE DOUBLE FALLS YORKSHIRE’S CAKE COUNTRY GOLD! OF CLYDE NEW DALE More winners in Woodland, waterfalls Discover quiet hills new DOWNTON our epic challenge and a new Utopia to the National Park LOCATIONS QUALITY, PERFORMANCE, SL WMN. Re-engineered by popular demand, the NEW Woman’s specific SL is now available. Built using high quality Sherpa leather and loaded with updated comfort and performance properties, this tough trekking boot will be your go to boot all year round. POWERED BY WWW.SCARPA.CO.UK 3 1 2 3 This month I’ve been... 1 Fending off the sun with my beloved #walk1000miles cap, without which I feel underdressed! 2 Spending some enjoyable time based out of YHA Helvellyn as we went in search of Wainwright’s favourite ridge walk (page 30). 3 Paying a surprise visit to a #walk1000miles meet-up at the invitation of organiser Dave Grundy – some of the original ‘class of 2016’ members who set the tone for this big friendly giant of a challenge! ou’re going to do Striding Edge?’ a motto I counsel myself with today. But that said the man to my father, at ridge, that day promised a watershed more breakfast in the B&B; ‘With him?’ profound than topography. I would become And he arched an eyebrow and either the kind of person who was Up To On the cover tilted his head in my direction. Things, or the kind of person who wasn’t. Far-from-vertigo- I knew I was young-looking, but you impugn There was of course no such pressure on free Jenny looks back with satisfaction the bravery of a 10-year-old at everyone’s that moment, and no-one should feel they on Striding Edge. peril. I shot daggers at the old fool. ought to do something they’re not comfy Our ridges feature When we got to the Hole in the Wall, the with. But I wasn’t scared, and what I really starts on page 30. PHOTO: TOM BAILEY decision point on Helvellyn, my dad looked at wanted was not to be insulated from the the conditions and decided he preferred we challenge the mountain – and by extension Talk to us! went the easier Swirral Edge route. But as we life – laid down: ‘I’m the most direct, most Share your pics, set off toward Red Tarn, to both our surprise, dramatic, most involving, but also potentially questions, have a natter – we love I started to cry. Dad was baffled, but out the the most difficult way up. Do you accept?’. to hear from you: explanation came – I wanted to do Striding That day, we did, and I’ve always found Edge because that man thought I couldn’t. ridges harshly hopeful ever since. countrywalking Now prudence is the better part of valour, country.walking which is what my dad was thinking, and Guy Procter, Editor countrywalking IN THIS ISSUE... Ed Stafford Jarvis Cocker Matthew Pike The first man to walk the The former Pulp frontman We sent former CW Amazon shows us what’s in reveals how he got into staffer Pike on a five-year his rucksack, and contrasts walking and his love of the assignment to establish just it fascinatingly with Peak District on the quirky trail who should be emigrating explorers of old. he’s co-created out of Edale. where between UK and NZ. Page 12 Page 46 Page 68 SEPTEMBER 2019 COUNTRY WALKING 3 Contents september 2019 ‘ridges can be depended on for great company, great sights and a great story’: p30 Features cover stories 46 Jarvis Cocker in the peak 30 Discover britain’s best ridges part 1 the Lake District ridge 58 Bake Cake walks! Off’s back! Walks to create 30 britain’s best ridges 52 Fairies walk even the reticent Wainwright a calorie-debt to fill with CAKE. described as unsurpassed. 58 Cake 60 F orgotten valley, feral peak 16 #walk1000miles 36 14 britain’s best ridges part 2 more of the best and most varied Welcome to the land of Boggle Green, Angerholme Pots, Jingling 60 Yorkshire’s new dale 86 Walking trousers ridges to walk across the country Sike and Wild Boar Fell. 92 Walking poles – every one a pleasure. 68 bWhich ritain Vs. New Zealand 46 W ith Jarvis Cocker in edale Nick enjoys a walk in the heart is really best for walkers? “brockley seemed to of the Peak District with giraffe- legged former Pulp star Jarvis. 70 tennyson’s Wolds No landscape had such an impact have a nice mix of as the gentle hills of his childhood. both hipster and 52 The alk with the fairies W Terry & June.” beautiful and mysterious Highland home of the wee winged 78 U Woods, priver, downriver waterfalls and a most stuart maconie p27 ones, plus their other hangouts. important experiment in happiness. 4 Country Walking september 2019 ‘I started to enjoy it. 27 NEW ROUTES Something clicked’: Jarvis Cocker p46 Get out more this month! Step-by-step directions and Ordnance Survey maps for 27 walks all over the country. u TURN OVER FOR MORE… REGULARS PLUS… 9 The View Fame for a farmer-photographer, 25 Where’s Kes? the world’s longest walk and 44 Special subscription offer Downton locations to explore. 77 In next month’s issue 77 Contact Country Walking 14 Walking weekend: Chesham Explore the hills and valleys on 95 Quizzes and prize crossword 96 Classified directory London’s doorstep, in the Chilterns. 129 Our routes, 16 your walks #walk1000miles The game for players aged 6-88! 130 Footnotes A visit to fairy HQ on the Isle of Skye: Fairy Glen p52 22 Your letters, emails & posts Touching stories and lovely pics. 27 Column: Stuart Maconie UK’s best walking neighourhood. 29 Guest column: Malcolm Morris We all do this, don’t we? REVIEWS 86 Walking trousers Unglamorous perhaps but you won’t believe the difference the perfect pair can make. Trousers that won’t hold Woods, waterfalls and 92 Walking poles Add a decade to your knees you back: the an experiment: p78 and lend stability to every step. big test, p86 WHERE TO GO IF YOU LOVE … PAY LESS EVERY ISSUE Rucksack nosing p12, Travelling by tube p14, Random acts of kindness p16, WHEN YOU Animal photo-bombs p24, Playing God p43, Pulp! The wonderful Pulp! p46, SUBSCRIBE Fairytales p52, Fairy cakes p58, Wild Boars p60, Feeling smug p68, Poetry PAGE 44 p70, Model communities p78, That new-strides feeling p86, Your knees p92 SEPTEMBER 2019 COUNTRY WALKING 5 cut-out Find a great and-keep routes walk near you! OUr pOCKet-SIZeD rOUte CArDS ✁ StArt ON pAGe 99 highlights from the 27 fantastic walks in this issue… south west south east midlands Helford river, Cornwall Langford, Essex Cropthorne, Worcestershire Explore the wooded creeks and quiet Find riverside bliss, a unique country Weave between dinky hills and pretty, coves around the Helford Estuary, church and the Museum of Power old-world villages around the River which inspired Daphne du Maurier. outside Maldon in rural east Essex. Avon, in the fertile Vale of Evesham. turn to walk 1 turn to walk 9 turn to walk 10 east north west north east reach, Cambridgeshire Farndon, Cheshire Womersley, North Yorkshire See for miles and miles from an ancient Step out beside the sinuous River Dee Dip into a flower-rich limestone gorge earthwork ridged across the rippling where it has carved out sandstone cliffs and along the River Went, looping chalklands at the edge of the Fens. and forms the England-Wales border. between three picturesque villages. turn to walk 14 turn to walk 16 turn to walk 20 wales scotland classic Carn pica, Powys ben Cruachan, Argyll & Bute Glenfinnan, Highland Walk the quiet, little-trodden end of the Climb a king-sized mountain rearing Get up close to the viaduct known to Brecon Beacons, up to a high point with rugged and majestic between Loch budding wizards everywhere and relish excellent views of the Black Mountains. Etive and the aptly-named Loch Awe. spectacular views down Loch Shiel. turn to walk 23 turn to walk 26 turn to walk 27 6 Country Walking September 2019 The mountains creak. Shoulder your Cerro Torre Breathe in. Buckle up. Zip, clip, adjust. Listen for the horizon Silence beckons you forward. Brace yourself. This is The Carry Moment™ Breathe out, and go. CERRO TORRE Move through isolated wilderness carrying everything you need to survive in the Cerro Torre. A serious load carrier for self-sufficient For self-sufficient adventure trekking and expeditions - the most advanced carry system we have ever built. CERRO TORRE: designed to move your world 4999 £ 3499 £ £ 5499 QUECHUA MH500 MID QUECHUA MH500 FORCLAZ TREK500 WALKING 30-LITRE TREKKING BOOTS BACKPACK TROUSERS 4.2/5 (697) 4.3/5 (409) 4.5/5 (641) ëExcellent grip and ëI love how Quechua ëPerfect! Very good comfort in the rugged designed this bag, freedom of movement terrain.The shoe is fully it looks great but it and very handy waterproof and the doesnít compromise the pockets. 5* from me, cushioning is fantastic.í packís functionality. An I would buy again.í excellent pack for hikes.í DECATHLON ñ SPORT INNOVATORS SINCE 1976 * SIGHTS SOUNDS WONDERS IDEAS COOL STUFF * HOW HOW MUCH SUNLIGHT YOU’LL GET FROM IT) ON A MINUTE BY MINUTE BASIS. PARTICULARLY USEFUL FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS AND WILDLIFE WATCHERS, BUT HANDY FOR WALKERS OF ALL INTERESTS. FIND IT AT SUNCALC.ORG OR AS AN ANDROID APP. HERE’S A HANDY WIDGET: A SUNLIGHT ANGLE CALCULATOR. IT’S A MAP OF THE WORLD WHICH YOU CAN MOVE TO PINPOINT YOUR CURRENT LOCATION OR FUTURE DESTINATION, AND SEE WHERE IN THE SKY THE SUN WILL BE FOUND (AND ROUGHLY TELEVISION STAR WALKING BACK TO DOWNTON The nation’s favourite mansion hits the Rise to Candleford, The Other Boleyn Girl big screen this month, in the shape of the and Emma, and the cloister of Lacock movie version of Downton Abbey. A feast Abbey features in several of the Harry for the eyes as ever, it got us thinking of Potter films. our favourite Downton-themed walks, Download which we’ve been curating since the saga Lacock at of the Crawley family first aired on TV in 2010. Here are four of the finest… cwroutes for the definitive 1 BURGHCLERE, HAMPSHIRE Lacock We have to start here, as it’s the home alternatively you can find a very pleasant stroll. of the real-life Downton Abbey itself. Just circular walk from the station at 4 south of Newbury, Burghclere sits on the NEWTON DALE, edge of the Highclere estate, which has NORTH YORK MOORS 3 served as the exterior and interior of LACOCK, WILTSHIRE We’re guessing a little here, but from Downton right from the start. Walk 5 Nestling in the rolling Wiltshire the movie trailer (which was all we saw in this issue is the perfect stroll for downs, Lacock is period TV heaven: as before this issue went to press) we’re wannabe Lord and Lady Granthams, well as starring in both the TV and movie pretty sure we could see the famous looping south from the village to the versions of Downton, it was the main stretch of the North York Moors Railway viewpoint of Beacon Hill, with an out- filming location for the 2007 series through Newton Dale, a theory not and-back detour into the estate for the Cranford and was also used in the exactly denied by the NYMR, who told definitive view over Highclere/Downton. trailblazing 1995 version of Pride and us: “We could not possibly comment on Prejudice. It also crops up in Lark that. At this stage.” But if it is where we 2 HORSTED KEYNES, think it is, our Hole of Horcum WEST SUSSEX walk at will Horsted Keynes station on the Bluebell take you to where it was shot. Railway stars as Downton station thanks to its beautifully authentic 1920s décor.  Downton Abbey is released on It’s easy enough to wander from station September 13th. to station along the Bluebell Railway using footpaths that hug tight to the line; PHOTO: ADRIAN SHERRATT/ALAMY*; INSETS: TOM BAILEY, PAUL WESTON/ALAMY* SEPTEMBER 2019 COUNTRY WALKING 9 INTERVIEW ‘If there is a heaven on Earth, it is this.’ Meet the Wiltshire farmer whose stunning photos have propelled him to one of London’s hippest galleries… I STILL FEEL that moment of complete joy when I stand on top of our downs and look around the views that seem to last for ever.” So says 70-year-old David White, the fourth generation of his family to have farmed at Berwick Bassett, on the edge of the Marlborough Downs. After handing the farm over to his son Edward ten years ago, David took up photography and discovered it was the perfect way to explore his lifelong passion for the landscapes and wildlife on his doorstep. From diving kingfishers to galloping racehorses; from soaring lapwings to battling buzzards, his images capture magical moments from across the downs. He has also ventured afield too, capturing wildlife moments in Nepal, Sweden and Japan, as well as the Arctic and Antarctic. MACIGAL MOMENTS His work has received acclaim far and wide, to the FROM THE NATURAL extent that this month he gets his own exhibition – WORLD... focused mainly on his Wiltshire images – at the Main image: prestigious Osborne Studio Gallery in Belgravia, London. Looking west from Avebury at sunset. “Ever since I was a child I have wanted to understand more about the wonderful wildlife and landscapes Above: A pair of around the Marlborough Downs,” he explains. roe deer posing on Marlborough Downs. “I still listen to the song of a skylark and wonder how they can do that without taking a breath. And although Left: Minnows for breakfast for I travel all over the world, I still feel that sense of wonder a hungry kingfisher. when a roe deer, high up on the downs in the early Above right: A short- morning light, turns and looks at me. If there is a heaven eared owl captured in on Earth, it is this.” front of a setting sun. Below right: Hardy David’s exhibition runs at the Osborne Studio Gallery, Highland cattle on Motcomb Street, London, from September 18th to a winter morning. October 4th. Admission free. Find out more at and And for two fantastic walks on David’s beloved Marlborough Downs, download Barbury Castle and Fyfield Down at 10 COUNTRY WALKING SEPTEMBER 2019 GO RECHARGEABLE, PLEADS OUTDOOR ACTION GROUP Single-use batteries are the latest targets in the campaign to ease the torment of Mother Earth, with walkers being urged to switch to rechargeables for their outdoor kit. The Outdoor Industries Association, which represents brands and retailers who make and sell the stuff we like to use, says the Recharge the Outdoors campaign is a smart and urgently-needed way to make a big difference. The campaign quotes figures from which say the UK throws away some 600 million single-use batteries every year, rather than recycling them. They end up in landfill, where the heavy metals inside them can turn toxic and seep into the landscape. Recycling your single-use batteries is one solution, but a better option is using rechargeables – which is why the campaign is spearheaded by rechargeable specialists GP Batteries. Their ReCyko+ Pro batteries can be recharged up to 1500 times; thus each battery potentially saves the wastage of 1500 single-use batteries. “The outdoor enthusiast is by nature a more eco-conscious consumer,” says James Tuck from GP. “But there still needs to be greater education on the environmental impact of discarded batteries and what consumers can do about it.” The OIA has also called on outdoor retailers to stock only rechargeable batteries, to help PHOTOS: DAVID WHITE consumers understand the scale of the issue. Chief executive Andrew Denton adds: “By committing to only selling rechargeable batteries, retailers will be able to really push the message to their customers: save money, save the planet.” , FANCY THE WORLD’S LONGEST WALK? Google Maps reckons this could be the longest continuous walk in the world: a jaunt from Cape Town in South Africa to Magadan in eastern Russia; a journey of some 22,387km or 13,910 miles, requiring 187 days of non-stop walking. That’s using viable roads though, so it stops when there’s plenty more land left to walk if you don’t mind going off-road. Continuing to either Naukan on the Bering Strait or Ozernovskiy on the Kamchatka Peninsula (the dangly bit at the very eastern end of Russia) would both add another 2000km easily. Or for genuine insanity, you could walk the coastline of the entire Asia/ Europe/Africa landmass, which we estimate (very roughly) at 72,360 miles or 116,460km. So, anyone up for it? SEPTEMBER 2019 COUNTRY WALKING 11 WALKING READS EXPEDITIONS UNPACKED Discover what the world’s most intrepid walkers carried in their baggage… I F YOU’VE EVER feared you might have overpacked for your latest walking adventure, take some tips from Ed Stafford. The former Army captain turned explorer has compiled the stories – and, more tellingly, the kit lists – from 25 great expeditions and curated them into a sumptuous new book, Expeditions Unpacked. Among them are Polar explorers Roald Amundsen and Robert Falcon Scott, mountaineers Sir Edmund Hillary and Reinhold Messner, and trans-Sahara motorist Eva Dickson. We picked two of the most eye- catching stories for walkers – those of intrepid journalist Nellie Bly and Ed himself – and got him to unpack them for us… Nellie Bly Round the world in PHOTO: SCIENCE HISTORY IMAGES/ALAMY* 72 days Nellie Bly had ILLUSTRATION: CHRISTINE BERRIE a fearsome reputation as a dogged investigative journalist; aged just 20, she had spent ten days undercover in the Women’s Lunatic Asylum on Blackwell’s Island, exposing the brutal treatment of patients, which led to widespread reforms in care for the mentally ill. So when Bly explained her plan to beat Phileas Fogg’s fictional globetrotting record, she was a little shocked by her editor’s response: “You would need a protector, and … you would need so much baggage that it would detain you in making rapid changes. Besides, you speak nothing but English, so there is no use talking about it; no one but a man can do this.”  For the full story, you need to track down the book, but it’s not too much Bly’s reply soon changed his mind: of a spoiler to say she succeeded – here’s how it ended… “Very well. Start the man and I’ll start The crowds erupted as the Miss Nellie Bly Special steamed away on its journey the same day for some other newspaper east. Despite slowing down occasionally, so Bly could wave her cap at various and beat him.” Bly was a force of nature; stations en route (and present bottles of Mumm champagne to the railways’ he couldn’t afford to lose her. superintendents who had fast-tracked her passage), the train made record time, The newspaper sat on the idea for pulling into New Jersey train station on 25 January 1890, at 3.51 p.m. almost a year, and then gave Bly just As she stepped onto the platform thousands of waving onlookers let out a two days’ notice before she would deafening cheer, cannons were fired and vessels in the harbour sounded their board the Augusta Victoria bound for hooters and whistles, in salute to Bly, the female adventurer who had Southampton, England, and begin ‘girdled the world’ in just 72 days and enraptured the nation. her round-the-world challenge. 12 COUNTRY WALKING SEPTEMBER 2019 PHOTO: KEITH DUCATEL Ed Stafford Walking the Amazon from source to sea ILLUSTRATION: CHRISTINE BERRIE As a restless schoolboy I was fascinated by the tales of the great polar explorers. My childhood heroes were globetrotters, solo yachtsmen, Everest summiteers and legendary adventurers such as Sir Ranulph Fiennes. I travelled the world as a Captain in the British Army, but by my early thirties I had become obsessed with the idea of ‘doing something amazing’. And so, on 1 April 2008, I found myself on a Peruvian beach, ankle-deep in the Pacific Ocean, ready to make
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