CONTENTS. Introducing Florence 35. Lonely Planet LONELYPLANET.COM CONTENTS 25 INTRODUCING TUSCANY & UMBRIA 4 THE BEST OF TUSCANY & UMBRIA

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Lonely Planet LONELYPLANET.COM CONTENTS 2 CONTENTS INTRODCING TSCANY & MBRIA 4 GETTING STARTED FESTIVALS & EVENTS 1 CLTRE 12 FOOD & DRINK 16 OTDOORS 2 FAMILY TRAVEL 24 THE ATHORS 2 ITINERARIES 3 FLORENCE
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Lonely Planet LONELYPLANET.COM CONTENTS 2 CONTENTS INTRODCING TSCANY & MBRIA 4 GETTING STARTED FESTIVALS & EVENTS 1 CLTRE 12 FOOD & DRINK 16 OTDOORS 2 FAMILY TRAVEL 24 THE ATHORS 2 ITINERARIES 3 FLORENCE 34 Introducing Florence 3 GETTING STARTED 3 Essential Information 41 Orientation 41 Walking Tour 41 Exploring Florence 43 Festivals & Events 2 Gastronomic Highlights 3 Recommended Shops 9 Transport 93 AROND FLORENCE 9 Fiesole 9 Pistoia 9 Chianti 11 NORTHWESTERN TSCANY 17 GETTING STARTED 11 PISA 112 Essential Information 112 Exploring Pisa 113 Gastronomic Highlights 119 Transport 12 THE BEST OF TSCANY & MBRIA 121 SAN MINIATO 129 Exploring San Miniato 129 Transport 129 LCCA & AROND 13 Lucca 13 Around Lucca 136 THE GARFAGNANA 13 Bagni di Lucca 13 Barga 139 Castelnuovo di Garfagnana 141 Around Castelnuovo di Garfagnana 142 VERSILIA 142 Viareggio 143 Pietrasanta 143 APANE ALPS 144 Carrara 14 THE LNIGIANA 146 Pontremoli 147 Driving Tour: The Via Francigena 14 CENTRAL COAST & ELBA 11 GETTING STARTED 14 LIVORNO 16 Essential Information 16 Orientation 16 Exploring Livorno 16 Gastronomic Highlights 1 Transport 16 THE ETRSCAN COAST 16 Driving Tour: Livorno to Piombino 16 Castiglioncello 162 San Vincenzo 163 Golfo di Baratti 163 PARCO NAZIONALE DELL ARCIPELAGO TOSCANO 16 Elba 166 Capraia 173 Gorgona 174 CENTRAL TSCANY 17 GETTING STARTED 17 SIENA 1 Essential Information 11 Exploring Siena 11 Gastronomic Highlights 19 Nightlife 191 Recommended Shops 191 Transport 192 26 CONTENTS LONELYPLANET.COM NORTH OF SIENA 192 San Gimignano 192 Volterra 19 SOTH OF SIENA 22 Driving Tour: Abbazia di San Galgano to Petroio 22 Montalcino 24 South of Montalcino 27 Pienza 29 pulciano 211 SOTHERN TSCANY 21 GETTING STARTED 21 GROSSETO & AROND 22 MASSA MARITTIMA 222 THE COAST 224 la Maremma 22 Argentario 226 Lago di Burano & Around 22 INLAND & ETRSCAN SITES 229 Driving Tour: Argentario to Manciano 229 Pitigliano & Around 23 EASTERN TSCANY 234 AREZZO 23 Essential Information 23 Exploring Arezzo 23 GETTING STARTED 23 Gastronomic Highlights 243 Nightlife 244 Recommended Shops 244 Transport 244 NORTHEAST OF AREZZO 244 Sansepolcro 244 Driving Tour: Sansepolcro to Arezzo on the Piero della Francesca Trail 246 THE CASENTINO REGION 247 SOTH OF AREZZO 24 Cortona 24 NORTHERN MBRIA 22 PERGIA 23 Essential Information 23 Exploring Perugia 23 GETTING STARTED 26 Gastronomic Highlights 263 Nightlife 264 Recommended Shops 26 Transport 26 SOTH OF PERGIA 266 Torgiano 266 Brufa 267 Deruta 26 ASSISI 269 Essential Information 27 Exploring Assisi 27 Festivals & Events 274 Gastronomic Highlights 274 Transport 274 SPELLO 27 Essential Information 27 Exploring Spello 276 Festivals & Events 277 Gastronomic Highlights 277 Nightlife 277 Transport 277 LA STRADA DEL SAGRANTINO 277 Foligno 27 Bevagna 279 falco 2 Trevi 22 GBBIO 23 Essential Information 23 Exploring Gubbio 23 Festivals & Events 26 Gastronomic Highlights 26 Nightlife 26 Transport 27 CITT DI CASTELLO 27 Essential Information 27 Orientation 27 Exploring Città di Castello 27 Gastronomic Highlights 29 Nightlife 29 Recommended Shops 29 Transport 29 LAGO TRASIMENO 29 Essential Information 291 Exploring Lago Trasimeno 292 Festivals & Events 29 Gastronomic Highlights 29 LONELYPLANET.COM CONTENTS 27 Nightlife 296 Transport 296 SOTHERN MBRIA 297 GETTING STARTED 3 ORVIETO 32 Essential Information 32 Exploring Orvieto 32 Gastronomic Highlights 36 Nightlife 3 Transport 3 AROND ORVIETO 3 Lago di Corbara 39 Todi 31 Castello di Vibio 314 SPOLETO & AROND 314 Spoleto 31 Campello sul Clitunno 319 THE VALNERINA & MONTI SIBILLINI 319 Norcia 32 Monti Sibillini 322 NARNI 32 Essential Information 327 Exploring Narni 327 Festivals & Events 329 Gastronomic Highlights 329 Transport 33 AMELIA 33 Essential Information 33 Exploring Amelia 331 Gastronomic Highlights 331 Transport 331 BACKGROND 332 HISTORY 333 LIVING THE IDYLL 347 ART & ARCHITECTRE 31 RENAISSANCE FRESCOS 364 VENTRE OTDOORS 369 ON THE WINE TRAIL 37 THE TSCAN & MBRIAN TABLE 31 FOOD GLOSSARY 39 ACCOMMODATION 391 Central Coast & Elba 41 Central Tuscany 42 Southern Tuscany 47 Eastern Tuscany 4 Northern mbria 49 Southern mbria 413 DIRECTORY 417 Business Hours 417 Children 417 Dangers & Annoyances 41 Discount Cards 419 Food & Drink 419 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 42 Health 421 Holidays 421 Insurance 421 Internet Access 422 Legal Matters 422 Maps 423 Money 424 Post 42 Telephone 42 Time 426 Tipping 426 Tourist Information 426 Travellers with Disabilities 427 Visas & Permits 427 Women Travellers 429 TRANSPORT 43 Arrival & Departure 43 Getting Around 433 LANGAGE 44 GLOSSARY 44 BEHIND THE SCENES 42 INDEX 461 MAP LEGEND 472 Florence 392 Around Florence 394 Northwestern Tuscany 397 TSCANY & MBRIA THE GARFAGNANA p13 Sample rustic dishes and scenic hikes in this wild corner of Tuscany ¾ 6 Passo Cerreto Pontremoli W Liguria Villafranca di Lunigiana Garfagnana 2 6 ¾ Foce di W Radici Se rchi Castelnuovo o di Garfagnana Regionale delle Alpi Barga Apuane Carrara Bagni di Lucca Seravezza Massa Aulla La Spezia SS12 Pietrasanta CHIANTI To Bologna (92km) ra Va To Genoa (km) EmiliaRomagna Viareggio ] p11 Pistoia 1 LIGRIAN SEA Gorgona ti on o M ban Al Lucca Torre del Lago Regionale Migliarino San Rossore Massaciuccoli Pisa Arno San Galileo Galilei Airport 1 Miniato Pontedera Eat, drink and sleep in style when exploring Tuscany s most sybaritic pocket Livorno Rosignano Solvay Chianti Greve in Chianti p1 SS439 TSCANY Wander the snarled lanes and magnificent piazzas of this Gothic gem Suvereto Massa Capraia Marittima Capraia SS73 Piombino Golfo di D $ 9 Siena 7 11 Volterra 7 6 Perugia Orvieto Assisi Pianosa Regionale della Maremma Orbetello Giglio Porto Argentario Giglio Giannutri ie t rv ru gi a o 7 O rra cristo Pe en a Vo lte Si Grosseto Note: Distances between destinations are approximate W Punta Ala TYRRHENIAN SEA 2 sa Pi en ce Pisa Fl or Elba $ Calamita DISTANCE CHART (KM) SS223 SS1 Follonica Capanne Prato Fiesole Amerigo Vespucci 1 Airport Florence Poggibonsi San Gimignano Colle di Val d'elsa Volterra riggioni D Cecina SIENA SS66 4 km 2 miles Pula FLORENCE p34 LEGEND ELEVATION Freeway Transport yourself back to the Renaissance in this masterpiece-filled city Primary Road Secondary Road Tertiary Road Railway line Airport ASSISI 1m 1m 12m 9m 6m 3m! p269 Follow St Francis footsteps to this nesco-listed hilltop town i di tto Alpenede B S an Rùfina Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, Falterona e Campigna $ Falterona Riserva Naturale Vallombrosa Leccio M on Reggello Bibbiena SS71 ti l Ch de Sansepolcro Arezzo ² * Castello Cortona SS29 re Teve i n es pen Ap $ Gubbio ] SS71 Siena Le Crete Cucco E4 Città di i Gaiole in Chianti Arno ia n t varchi Le Marche Alpe della Luna Pieve di Santo Stefano Cucco LA STRADA DEL SAGRANTINO p277 Pass vineyards, castles, sunflower fields and villages on this popular wine trail Lago Subasio Perugia Trasimeno 1 ] pulciano Montalcino Aeroporto Assisi $ Subasio Pienza Lago di Chiusi Sant'Egidio San Quirico Nazionale Spello ] d'orcia Foligno dei Monti SS3 Sibillini Pausillo falco Trevi $ MBRIA Norcia SS71 SS29 Regionale Amiata Todi Spoleto del Tevere (173m) Lago di Nazionale Orvieto Corbara Coscerno Aspra del Gran Sasso e della Laga Pitigliano Lago Amelia Manciano C Cascata del di Alviano Marmore Terni SS74 Narni Abruzzo Tever e Va lne Ne rina ra SS2 Lazio Orte Teve SS1 To Rome (km) re Lago di Burano LE CRETE p22 Traverse the seductively undulating, vine-laden hills south of Siena NORCIA p32 Indulge in mbria s gastronomic delights before escaping to the Valnerina Lonely Planet LONELYPLANET.COM Lonely Planet. 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